Climb Every Mountain in Lisbon

Lisbon city centre

Lisboa, the capital of Portugal, is an almost forgotten European capital that breathes effortless elegance and charm on every turn, and is surprisingly affordable and efficient.

The city of Lisbon itself is only home to half a million people, meaning that this remains one of the few European cities that hasn’t lost its old charms amidst the rise of tourism and commercialism.

Sao Jorge Castle

Trams and hills

Coffee and cake culture is the crucible of all Lisbon life, so make sure it plays a central role in your visit. Coffee is cheap at even the most famous of cafes, and freshly baked cakes will leave you salivating until dinner. Try Pastis de Belem, a creamy custard cake that bears some resemblance to an egg custard – which I ironically find disgusting. However, I could eat these treats every day.

Other culinary delights include the Francesinha. Forget your English breakfast – this is the ultimate hangover cure, loaded with cured ham, linguiça, fresh sausage like chipolata, steak or roast meat and covered with melted cheese and a hot thick tomato and beer sauce served with French fries. I might die, but I would die happy eating one of these.

Fortunately, the hilly city will make you work off all those calories. As an older San Francisco, the hills here command amazing views across the Tagus Estuary. Visit the São Jorge Castle around sunset for an impressive vista over the coloured houses, ruined chapels, and the river down the 25 April Bridge (again, you might mistake it at first glance for the Golden Gate Bridge in San Fran).

Alternatively, trek to the many Miradouros dotted around the city. These are excellent vantage points that offer panoramic views of Portugal from different angles (the hills change your perspective a lot). One of my preferred spots, the Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alcantara, offers a fantastic perspective over the city and the castle, whilst the Miradouro das Portas do Sol in one of the oldest districts of the city seems to have been stolen straight from a postcard, with its old monuments and white washed walls descending to the river.

The Tile Museum

Jeronimos Monastery

Monument to the Discoveries

Visit the historic quarter of Belem for some of the popular hotspots, including the Monument to the Discoveries, the Belem Tower and the Jeronimos Monastery. On the other side of the city, be sure to check out the National Tile Museum, which has a collection of over five centuries of intricate tile art from across Portugal and the world and I honestly found this to be an interesting exhibit, showcasing some of the most influential work in the country.

Admiring the view over Sintra and
the Atlantic

The architectural gem, the Palace
of Pena

Escape the city centre for a day, and take a train from Rossio station to the suburb of Sintra, a UNESCO world heritage site, famed for its gardens and palaces. Walking around this expansive collection of city walls, parks and estates gives an idea of the historical importance and regency of Portugal. Head up to the National Palace of Pena, a visual treat. From its tenacious mix of Romantic and Germanic architectural styles, to the traditional Portuguese tiles, to the contrasting bright red, blue and yellow facades, this site is as beautiful on the exterior as its lavish fittings on the inside. Impressive to the end, the view down to the Atlantic Ocean left me with a feeling of mighty importance, looking out on to the Ocean that marks so many discoveries and voyages of history.

If possible, I would encourage you to sample some of the traditional Fado music over Portuguese tapas and sangria to wrap up your tour of this fantastic city.

Fresh Tapas prepared at the table